Sitting in my room looking at raindrops running incessantly down my window, it didn't take much motivation to get on Google in search of last minute holiday somewhere a little more inspiring.
I had a week free in my diary, and as the weather in Exeter didn't look like it would brighten up any time soon, it seemed like a no brainer.
I got searching. As an active and largely food-orientated individual, I wanted to go somewhere that would have a great food scene and lots to do to keep me and my partner busy. A beach and guaranteed sun was also a must. Our pale British skin was well in need of some colour after months of being wrapped up in coats and scarves braving Devon's enthralling climate.
After a couple of days searching, we settled on Valencia, Spain. Neither of us had been to the city before, although we had both previously visited Spain and loved it. Valencia seemed a little less known than the main tourist destinations of Barcelona and Madrid, and our last minute booking meant that we could spend four days in a nice hotel with flights included for a price that fitted within our small student budget.
We took the National Express bus from Exeter to London Gatwick overnight in order to catch our early morning flight. This meant that we arrived in Valencia at about 10am local time. We were exhausted but it didn't take long for grins to spread across our faces as we stepped off the plane and were met by a vast blue sky, glaring sun and the kind of enveloping warmth that never seems to reach the UK.
Instead of taking you through the step-by-step itinerary of what turned out to be an absolutely fantastic holiday, I will instead share my top tips for travelling in Valencia based on our experience: where to stay, how to travel, where to go and of course, what to eat and drink.
Where to Stay
We booked our holiday through lastminute.com and decided to go for the hotel and flight package deal. We chose a hotel called Illunion Valencia 4 which was located about 20 minutes from the airport, 10 minutes from the Old Town and 20 minutes from the beach on the Metro. The Metro turned out to be just around the corner from the hotel, less than a minute walk, and there was also a couple of cafes and a supermarket within the vicinity which was an added bonus. The hotel had a lovely swimming pool- although its opening hours were a little awkward- and a gym, which we made good use of with our early morning workouts. The rooms were clean and comfortable, the staff were friendly and we both agreed we would not hesitate to go back. There also happen to be three other hotels of the same chain in Valencia- Illunion Valencia 3, Illunion Aqua 3, and Illunion Aqua 4. We may have accidentally gone to the wrong Illunion hotel on arrival and therefore can confirm that the other Illunion hotels are also very nice and well located, with the Aqua hotels being a 5 minute tram ride away from the beach.
How to Travel
From our experience, the best way to travel around Valencia is most definitely public transport. Valencia has an extensive and rather sophisticated metro, tram and bus network which covers the entire city and is good value for money. Visitors are able to purchase the 'Valencia Tourist Card' which gives you unlimited access to all public transport for either a 24 hour, 48 hour, 72 hour or 7-day period. We opted for the 72 hour card which cost us €25 and covered us for our entire trip, allowing us to go wherever we wanted in the city. The Valencia Tourist Card also has the added perks of discounts to shops, restaurants and various sights around the city.
Before our arrival, we had also read that bikes were a good way of getting about the city. Valencia has lots of bike paths and bike rental stores. The standard rate for a days rental was about €20 plus a deposit. As we were on a tight budget and had already opted for the public transport card, we didn't end up using the bikes. However, had our stay been longer this is definitely something we would have looked into. It is also worth noting that the bikes parked around the city that resemble London's 'Boris Bikes' are for local's use only and sadly not accessible to tourists.
Where to go
The Old Town
The Old Town is Valencia's historical centre. It is home to a number of monuments, museums and galleries, all placed within the spectacular architecture that Spain is famous for. The city consists of a web of beautiful plaza's, joined by bewitching little cobbled streets which are lined with quaint bars and restaurants showcasing Valencia's impressive culinary scene.
Plaza de la Virgin was our particular favourite. Sitting by the fountain in its centre under the presence of the stunning Cathedral, amidst an array of charming cafes and restaurants, it was hard not to fall in love with the place. Its tranquil ambiance and unrelenting beauty meant that this Plaza had a particular draw to which we were unable to resist.
Plaza del Ayuntamiento is also definitely worth visiting. Vast in scale, immense architecture and monuments reign over the bustling restaurants, cafes and shops lining the street. It has a lively and enthralling atmosphere and is a lovely place to sit in a café with a fresh orange juice and watch the world go by. It also leads to the city's train station and the Plaza del Torros, the city's bull-fighting ring.
Mercado Central
Valencia's Central Market is located within the Old Town and is one to add to the itinerary. The huge covered market opens every morning to offer an array of foods and local produce at a decent price. We brought our watermelon there to take to the beach and it did not disappoint.
Jardines del Turia
The Jardines del Turia are a slice of verdure amongst the otherwise urban city, providing a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. They can be recognised clearly on any map as the green line snaking through the city, consisting of a long walkway lined idyllically with palm trees, flowers, and greenery. We decided to walk from the Old Town to the beach through the gardens on our second day, and stopped along the way to have a picnic under the shade of the trees, soaking up the peaceful and laid-back ambiance. It is popular to cycle the length of the gardens, and this is also a good way to see some of Valencia's main tourist attractions. The gardens run the length of the city, passing the Old Town, Science Museum and beach. Although we did not go inside the Science Museum, the gardens passed alongside so we were able to admire the incredible architecture and get a feel for the diversity that the city has to offer.
The Beach
We were a little skeptical about the beach as prior to our visit our online research had revealed little, with Valencia's tourist sites tending to place a greater emphasis on the Old Town and Science complex as points for visitor attraction. However, Valencia's beach certainly did not disappoint- a vast stretch of silky soft sand, flanked by seafront cafes and restaurants and overlooking the glittering and surprisingly warm ocean. I'm usually one of those people who creep slowly into the sea, wincing from the cold with every step, but in Valencia I had no trouble diving straight in. The sea was warm yet refreshing and we drifted from beach to sea, sea to beach, occasionally bimbling to a café for a refreshing drink. It's also worth wandering down to the beach one evening, as this is the time that the locals are out in full force, playing volleyball and frisbee on the seafront. It's delightful to stroll along the seafront, toes in the sand, soaking up its blissful demeanour.
Food and Drink
Breakfast
I am a strong believer that breakfast is the most important- and best- meal of the day. Finding a spot for brunch therefore soon became a priority upon arriving in the city. The breakfast norm for Valencians tends to be fresh orange juice, a pastry of some sort and a coffee. Most of the cafés we passed seemed to offer this in the mornings, usually for under $5. However, being a self-acclaimed foodie and slight health freak, I was desperate to find somewhere that would have a little more to offer and would give my addiction to morning porridge a run for its money. Valencia did not disappoint. It didn't take long until we found the perfect location- Saona- located in our favourite Plaza de la Virgin, a quaint café overlooking the sunny square. To my delight, I was able to have greek yoghurt with berry compote and a fruit salad, and my boyfriend was relieved to find that the typical Valencian breakfast of croissants was also up for offer. We both had freshly squeezed Valencian orange juice which was simply delicious and coffee. Once we had found this gem of a place, nowhere else quite compared and it soon became part of our morning routine.
Lunch
We usually spent lunchtimes on the beach, often going to the supermarket and making a picnic in order to save money. However, we did come across a wonderful little lunch spot on the beach, just up from the Marinas tram stop. Open all day, it offered a variety of sandwiches, salads, fruit shakes and juices, all freshly made and served in little time making it the perfect place for a casual lunch stop. It was also very good value for money, with the salads and sandwiches costing €5 and the fruit shakes and juices costing €3. We had the salad and a fruit shake and both were delicious. The refreshing fruit shakes in particular became our new addiction and although our stay was short, we managed to work out way through quite a few of the flavours.
Dinner
The ideal dinner spot came in the form of El Rall, located just off from Plaza del Reina. We had passed this spot on the first night after we had already eaten, and were drawn to its lively atmosphere and impressive looking food. Before arriving in Valencia, we had already decided that we needed to dedicate at least one night to Paella. Paella originated in Valencia, and therefore this really was a must, especially as we are both huge seafood fans. The Paella at El Rall was truly impressive- we ordered the Seafood Paella which came with generously sized mussels and prawns. The waiter also offered to have a crab- at that time alive in a tank- added to the dish, diminishing any doubts one might have as to whether the food was locally sourced. We also treated ourself to 'Agua de Valencia', a Valencian cocktail consisting of orange juice, vodka, gin and cava. It was lucky that we shared as it tasted so nice that it was extremely easy to forget the amount of alcohol it contained. Both being lightweights, one each may have resulted in us not making it back to the hotel that night...
The Verdict
Our stay in Valencia felt somewhat cut short when the day came for us to depart. We had soon found ourselves in a rather delightful routine and it is no exaggeration to say that we had to drag ourselves away from the beautiful city and climate that had embraced us during our travels. It was clear that we had only touched the tip of the iceberg and the city had so much more of offer and explore. Valencia had been just what we were hoping for when we booked it last minute and on a bit of a whim. We had immersed ourselves in Spanish culture, treated ourselves to delicious Valencian dishes, and even began to develop shade of lesser white on the beach. When the plane landed in the UK, although sad to be back, we both felt lucky to have spent time in the city and had such a wonderful time- even if it was short and sweet. We both agree that it is a place we would not hesitate to return.
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